Disc Golf Lessons:


The biggest problem with throwing a disc is that most new players have to unlearn bad habits. This short instruction is aimed in that direction.



The basic throw is backhand and the proper grip is the key. Look at the drawing, then pick up your disc and imitate it. Almost the entire grip is between the thumb and index finger. The other fingers change the angle of release or help add more grip. Many players learn to throw by using the thumb and finger grip only. Remember the harder you throw the harder your pinch. Relax the rest of your body and throw. Donít try to establish a record until you throw and follow through are relaxed and consistent.



The stance for a drive is shoulders and feet in line with the line representing the line of throw you desire. The distance throw is always on this line. As you get closer to the hole and are making an approach throw, you can loosen up your foot placement to as much as 45 degree for a putt.

The back swing is like winding a spring. Plant your feet on the line. Sit down two or three inches to loosen your hips then bring the disc back as far as you can reach. Your arm should be directly over the line to the target and your wrist should be cocked so that the disc is touching the inside of your throwing arm. The throw is an unwinding of the spring, first the ankles, knees, hips, stomach, shoulders and lastly your arm. If you feel like you have snapped a whip, you are getting the idea.




To throw a left curve, tilt the disc to the left and a right curve curve tilt disc to the right. Experiment!





There are many schools of thought as to bending the elbow during the backswing. The fully extended arm is the longest fulcrum we have available to throw with. Why take a chance that it may not be fully extended during the throw? Start with it straight and end with it straight. This will insure maximum hand velocity and you won't have to worry about timing.

Stand with your shoulders and feet in line with the direction of flight. Start the back-swing with your wrist cocked and the side of the disc furthest away from you aimed at the spot on the ground about 20' away from you. Your right elbow should be straight and rigid. Complete your back-swing at a point as far back as you can stretch, like winding a spring.

Flex your knees, squat down 2" and start your throw (unwind) from your ankles, knees, hips, stomach, shoulders, arm, and last, but most important your wrist. Then follow through, let your arm continue to swing until it pulls your shoulders around with it. If the disc wants to turn over as it leaves hand, you may have allowed the edge furthest from you to come up, or your grip between your thumb and index finger needs to be increased.

 The putt is your most important throw. Turn 45 degrees from the line, hold the disc in the same grip you drive with. Paint the target up and down to be sure you are lined up, focus on one link of chain. Take A REHEARSAL throw in your mind and throw. Focus and practice. A word of caution, only imitate a CHAMPION!

How to Choose Disc Weight:

Disc weight plays a large part in the flight characteristics of discs and the success that players will have with them. While disc weight may seem insignificant and is often overlooked, it is quite important to find discs in a weight that will help you achieve maximum success.

Drivers are the most sensitive discs to variations in speed, angle, and weight. Drivers in lighter weights fly farther, require less power, and have less low speed fade than heavier ones. Heavier drivers will be more accurate and predictable than lighter discs, but they also have a greater power requirement to achieve a long, straight flight.

When considering drivers you want to throw straight, you should take your power level into consideration when choosing a weight range. If you are a higher-powered player, discs at 170g or higher should give a controlled, stable flight. If you are a player of moderate power, discs in the 167-172g range should be a good choice for control and distance. If you are a lower-powered player or beginner, you will probably have best success with discs that weigh in the 160's, or even discs in the 150 class.

If you are looking for a disc to curve to the right, lighter discs will be easier to turn. If you want a disc to finish hard left or fly better into the wind, heavier weights will hold up better in those conditions.

Unlike drivers, midrange and approach discs fly farther in heavier weights. Although there may be a greater distance potential, you should not stray too far from your ideal weight range as the heavier midrange and approach discs will still have higher power requirements.

Putter weights will only slightly alter their flight characteristics. Heavier putters will hold a better line in windy situations but lighter putters will have more float and will be easier to putt with from longer distances.

Throwing Terms:

All definitions below assume a right-handed backhand throw. Left-handed backhand and right-handed forehand throws will result in a flight path opposite of the ones described here.


Releasing the disc with the outer edge at an angle lower than parallel to the ground. This will cause most discs to curve to the left.


Releasing the disc with the outer edge at an higher than parallel to the ground. This will cause most discs to curve to the right.

High Speed Turn

The characteristic of a disc to curve to the right at the beginning of its flight when thrown hard.

Low Speed Fade

The natural tendency of a disc to tail left as it slows down at the end of its flight.


A term used to describe the relative resistance to high speed turn and amount of low speed fade of a disc. A more over-stable disc will generally have higher resistance to turn and greater low speed fade.


A term used to describe a disc with relatively low resistance to high speed turn and less low speed fade.


The term used to describe the flight of a disc that curves to the right when thrown flat or at hyzer. A less over-stable or under-stable disc will generally be easier to turn over.

Nose Down

Releasing the disc with the front end of the disc lower than the back end. Certain discs will fly better when thrown nose down.

Nose Up

Releasing the disc with the front end of the disc higher than the back end.

Stall Out

A term used to describe the flight of a disc when it peaks in height and drops off to the left without much glide. This generally occurs when the disc is thrown with the nose up.


A term used to describe the flight of a disc when it begins by turning to the right and then "flexes" out and glides back to the left.


A type of throw where the disc is turned over so far that it lands on its edge and rolls.


A term used to describe the arm speed and power a player gets into their throw. More snap will generally make the disc fly faster and further.


Types of Discs



Fast and low profile, these discs are made for distance. Drivers can be found in varying levels of stability, ranging from discs that will gradually turn to the right to discs that will pull extremely hard left immediately after release. Although these discs are the longest flyers out there, this is accomplished at the expense of accuracy.


Used for the "in between" distance shots, midranges are often the staple of a golfer's game, especially on shorter courses. These discs are generally of medium relative speed with good glide and a focus on control rather than distance. Although the recent trend in disc golf has been to develop smaller-diameter discs, many of the very popular midrange discs are of medium to large diameter. Midrange discs generally are taller and more blunt than drivers but sharper and flatter than putters.

Putt and Approach

The most blunt edged discs, Putt and Approach discs generally have a tall profile and are slow flying. Used for putts as well as short drives and approaches, these discs are made to fly straight and are the most accurate discs in a golfer's bag. Putters are often made in soft, tacky plastic in order to grip the chains better and stick in the basket.


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